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Hermes International: All eyes on the growth algo
研报英文原文证据摘录
Hermes International: All eyes on the growth algo
Chiara Battistini AC Europe Equity Research
(39-02) 8895-2700 29 July 2026 J P M O R G A N
chiara.x.battistini@jpmorgan.com
• Leather goods growth and capacity: Management pushed back on calls to restrict
leather volumes for exclusivity, arguing demand remains well above supply and that
virtually all production is sold. Hermes reiterated plans to add capacity steadily at one
new leather workshop per year through 2030, with openings slated for 2027/2028/2030
and planning already underway for post‑2030 capacity, noting that the pace is constrained
by recruiting and training artisans, maintaining quality standards, and access to
high‑quality leather. They also stressed that the c.6% leather “volume” target is primarily
a function of artisan working hours, meaning reported growth is driven by mix (bag size/
model, leather type/exotics), productivity and geographic pricing effects rather than a
simple “6% + price” formula. They also highlighted the broad-based desirability beyond
quota bags, flexibility from training artisans by craft (not models), and ongoing
opportunities in the men’s category.
• Margins and H2 considerations: Management said H1 margins were helped by a
positive translation effect that partially offset c.€100m of hedging losses, but at current
FX rates this translation tailwind should fade to roughly neutral for the full year while
hedging losses are expected to increase to c.€210m, implying a bigger FX headwind in
H2. They acknowledged that, all else equal, the absence of H1’s translation benefit could
lead to a c.30bps gross-margin headwind in H2. They also flagged higher H2 spend from
stepped-up capex (expected to reach c.€1bn for the year), more communication/brand
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