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10 Questions for Management
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10 Questions for Management
UpdateM#3 – Jewellery category. Over the past 12 months, as a number of talented Creative
Directors recently joined leading soft luxury brands (Matthieu Blazy at Chanel,
Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Demna at Gucci, etc.), a number of industry observers
have predicted the "end of the Jewellery super cycle" - i.e. renewed creativity and
innovation in ready-to-wear and footwear would lead to wallet shift at the expense
of spending on jewellery. If anything, Western jewellery houses (including Cartier
and Van Cleef, but also Bulgari, Boucheron, etc.) seem to have increased their
outperformance vs soft luxury brands. How do management explain this? Since
early March, the gold price is down in excess of -20%: are declining gold prices a
good or a bad thing for jewellery demand (and Richemont's performance overall)?
#4 – Jewellery Maisons reported +24% YoY CER growth in 1Q27. How does
performance differ by brand? Would it be fair to say that Van Cleef's overall growth
rate is now likely in line with Cartier (both growing strongly at +DD%, but up until
FY26, Van Cleef was growing notably faster we believe)? What keeps driving the
outperformance of Richemont's two leading brands worldwide? How does JM's
performance differ by product - is it fair to assume that iconic lines (Cartier Love
Bracelet, Van Cleef Alhambra etc) are outperforming, thus accounting for a
continuously greater share of the sales? At what point does ubiquity impact
desirability? Cartier: in FY26, we estimate that Cartier grew approx. +13% YoY at
CER, with Jewellery up c.+10% and Watches up c+19%. Assuming growth for Cartier
of approx. +22% YoY at CER, would it be fair to assume Jewellery up c+20% and
Watches up c+26%? Buccelatti seems to be doing extremely well, likely
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